Models descending spiral staircases in bathrobes and pajamas seem to mock the notion that menswear is a form of masculine armor. They walk on mouton coverings on the runway, as if to assert that relaxation is modern luxury.

Fendi's 2016-17 Autumn/Winter collection was unveiled at the brand's Milan showroom on January 18th. Everything was soft and oversized, from cocoon-shaped robe coats to wide-leg pants, and even the hand-knitted knitwear was a relaxed, off-turtleneck fit.

The jackets also had loose, boxy silhouettes, adorned with a cartoon-inspired "FENDI" appliqué on the chest, continuing the youth culture theme of the past few seasons. The collection continued with catchy, pop pieces sure to saturate social media timelines, including the popular Peekaboo bag series, Fendi face motifs, backpacks, and hiking-style sneakers.

The colors are based on brown, gray, black, and navy, with yellow, red, and blue used effectively, and checks from various eras are proposed in a check-on-check format. The materials utilize cutting-edge high-tech techniques, such as wool that looks like fur and fur that looks like wool.

The luxurious volume of the leather and fur, and the artisanal techniques involved, are the kind of luxury that can only be achieved with Silvia Fendi, the third generation of the Fendi family, as creative director.

Text: Noda Tatsuya