While studying at Bunka Fashion College, Otsuki Soshi attended "coconogacco" and launched his own label, "Soushi Otsuki," in 2015. This year, he became the youngest Japanese designer to be nominated for the LVMH Prize, a fashion contest sponsored by LVMH to foster and support young designers.

Part 2 of our interview with Otsuki Soshi.

--Among the Tokyo New Age collection, I think your clothes are closest to real clothing. What do you think about the boundary between real and fashion?

Real on its own is boring, so I'm conscious of striking a balance. Ever since I was a student, I've disliked so-called "artistic" styles, so rather than aiming for something that looks "real," I was aiming for something that "looks real." I was conscious of creating a "well-made" look. Men's fashion has grown in part alongside the "real." Armani is like that, down-to-earth. They propose fashion that fits into real life. 。

--I think one of the reasons it's closer to "real" is that it's based on tailoring.

It's not that I'm consciously particular about it, but rather that I started out in tailoring. It just happened naturally, and there was a time when I wanted to be a tailor. I cherish that, or rather, it's my base.

--Where does the consistent Japanese-style image come from?

Actually, I don't really want to use Japanese images or motifs. So rather than borrowing an image, it feels like I'm making Japanese-style tailoring to myself. I feel a bit embarrassed to say this, but it feels like a Japanese Armani.

--So, is Armani your favorite designer?

I don't just like Armani, I respect him. When I was in high school and aspired to be a fashionista, it was Kris Van Assche's Dior Homme. It was after seeing a look in the magazine HUgE featuring a blue Kris Van Assche shirt tucked into gray slacks that I became hooked on the world of fashion.

--You're both designers who work primarily in the world of men's fashion. But you designed your first women's collection for this Isetan pop-up. How was that?

It's difficult, isn't it? (laughs) This time I designed a shirt, jacket, and skirt. With men's clothing, as long as you add a collar, pockets, and the right details and functionality, you can guarantee a certain level of quality. But with women's clothing, there's the shape and all that, so it's kind of tricky. The body has a lot of curves, so it's hard to work with. I was like, "What will it look like when I wear this?" (laughs).

--When do you feel the most joy as a designer?

It's a cliche, but I guess it's when I try it on a model. Like, "Oh, so that's how it will turn out," or "This is it." I'm happy when I create something, style it, and it turns out great. Sometimes it perfectly matches my imagination, and sometimes it exceeds it.

--What is your most iconic item?

I don't have anything in particular right now, but I'll definitely make a jacket every season. Jackets don't have much room for play, so it can be a challenge, but I want people to know it's a Soushi Otsuki jacket at a glance.

--Tell us about your approach to design.

I often go to health spas, and I love cold baths. I can really concentrate when I close my eyes in a cold bath. It's like all the ideas I've accumulated from research and looking at images are coming together as clothing. Like, "The pocket is here, and if I do this, and do this...Ah! This is it!"

Then when I go into the sauna, I forget everything (laughs). That's why I keep repeating the same set over and over.

--It's called alternating hot and cold baths. I go in the sauna, then in the cold bath, then in the sauna again...

It's not exactly a trip, but I go out and do research. It feels like all the dust that's accumulated inside me is gathered up in a cold bath.

--Do you set a theme each season?

Sometimes I do, but sometimes I try not to say much about it. Since SS16, I haven't felt like being too revealing, so I try not to include any funny anecdotes like, "This is the theme."

--What are your near-term goals and what would you like to achieve in the near future?

I'd like to increase the number of stores that stock your brand.

--And now for my last question: what kind of brand do you want to be in the distant future?

When asked, "What's the coolest brand in Japan?", I want to make "Soushi Otsuki" the first thing that comes to mind for many people. I've also always wanted to become part of the "context" of fashion. Just like Armani reigned supreme in men's fashion history 30 years ago. I guess I want to "keep my feet on the ground" so that I can achieve that.


Two designers were mentioned in this interview: Giorgio Armani and Kris Van Assche. Both are undoubtedly figures who have left their mark on the history of men's fashion. The former is the "emperor of fashion," needing no introduction. He removed shoulder pads from tailored jackets, giving men's clothing a softer feel and renewing the concept of physicality in fashion. The latter, at Dior Homme, has released a series of tailored items with straightforward, masculine cuts.

The fact that both of these names were mentioned likely signifies the pursuit of "masculine beauty." Otsuki's collection seems to sound the alarm about dandyism, which is becoming increasingly genderless and hollowed out. And what's more, it is precisely because it has become hollowed out that "masculine beauty" can, in a purer sense, take on new value as fashion. The "Japanese tailoring" created by Otsuki may even contain such values as to open up new horizons in men's fashion.

Return to the first part, "Showcasing Japanese salarymen in the context of fashion."