PUCCI launches capsule collection with Tomo Koizumi. Japanese designers are taking notice of the return to couture.

Oct 26, 2020

Emilio Pucci has appointed Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi for its Spring/Summer 2021 collection. The capsule collection was presented in the form of a short film during Milan Fashion Week.


From 2015, Pucci appointed MSGM's Massimo Giorgeti as creative director for five seasons over a two-year period. For his Fall/Winter 2020 collection, Tomo Koizumi presented a collaborative collection with Koché, marking the first time a young designer has collaborated with a Japanese designer.

Influenced by his fashion-loving mother, Tomo Koizumi was inspired to become a fashion designer in his early teens by coming across the book "John Galliano for Dior." In 2011, a boutique owner became interested in a dress he had made as a student, leading to the launch of his own brand, "Tomo Koizumi." He began working as a costume designer for models, artists, and actresses. In February 2019, his first runway show was held in New York, with support from Katie Grand, Marc Jacobs, and KCD Public Relations, Inc. Two of his works were exhibited at the MET Museum, one of which was purchased by the MET. In April 2020, he was named a finalist and co-winner of the LVMH Prize. The Pucci house released a statement saying, "We asked the incredibly talented Koizumi to interpret Pucci's unique heritage. His beautiful technique, combined with his unique and dreamy vision of the feminine, is like a magician's." "I have always wanted to collaborate with a maison brand with such a rich heritage as Pucci, and this is a dream come true. I am grateful for this rare opportunity to be inspired by Marquis Emilio Pucci's timeless and beautiful style and the harmony of the brand's stunning color palette," said designer Tomotaka Koizumi. The capsule collection will be available in Emilio Pucci boutiques around the world in March 2021. Tomoko Izumi's Spring/Summer 2021 collection was originally scheduled for a show at New York Fashion Week in September, but has now been changed to a lookbook presentation during the period. This time, the theme is "Flower Bride," a Japanese bride, and traditional Japanese wedding attire. Using deadstock fabrics such as satin and cupra in addition to the organza she has traditionally used, she has expanded the range of her signature ruffle dresses. Furthermore, a collaboration with Treat, a Japanese import wedding dress shop, was recently announced in Tokyo. The house of Jean-Paul Gaultier has announced the appointment of Sacai's Abe Chitose as its haute couture designer. Along with these moves to return to couture, such as Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga returning to Paris haute couture and Spiber joining the management of Yuima Nakazato, who presents couture in Paris, attention is being drawn once again to Tomo Koizumi, who has built his own world through made-to-order clothing rather than pret-a-porter.


https://youtu.be/G6P0q-ACreY

Text by Tatsuya Noda

野田達哉
  • Emilio Pucci Spring Summer 2021/ Capsule collection
  • Emilio Pucci Spring Summer 2021/ Capsule collection
  • Emilio Pucci Spring Summer 2021/ Capsule collection
  • Emilio Pucci Spring Summer 2021/ Capsule collection
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
  • TOMOI KOIZUMI 2021SS COLLECTION
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