Louis Vuitton unveils the Tambour Opera Automata, a new high-end watch inspired by Sichuan Opera.
©Ulysse Frechelin
With the debut of the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues its journey into the exclusive world of high-end watchmaking with an automaton movement. Paying homage to the "face-changing" art of Sichuan Opera, this exceptional watch, meticulously crafted with exquisite detail, depicts a traditional face that comes to life with a touch of the wrist and instantly changes appearance. This is truly an artistic performance brought to life by a masterpiece movement conceived, developed, and assembled entirely by Louis Vuitton's watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
©Regis Goley
After the Tambour Carpe Diem won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2021, Louis Vuitton left Europe and the expressive world of vanitas to embark on a new journey in China, the birthplace of "face-changing." This art of face-changing, a defining feature of Sichuan opera, is a major source of inspiration for the Tambour Opera Automata. Just like the Tambour Carpe Diem, which changes its appearance at the touch of a button, the Tambour Opera Automata also embodies an unwavering discipline that requires incredible skill. In Sichuan Opera, face-changers cycle through up to 20 different masks in the blink of an eye, revealing a wide range of expressions. The technique of making the faces painted on the silken fabric appear and disappear with quick hand movements and graceful fan movements is a well-kept secret, and in the 21st century, only a handful of face-changers remain who continue to practice this ancient art.
©Ulysse Frechelin
To translate this mystical interplay within the watch case, Louis Vuitton enlisted the help of some of the most accomplished artisans of our time. Master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini of the Maison's watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, created the movement for this extraordinary timepiece, while enameller Anita Porchet and engraver Dick Steenman adorned it with their exquisite design.
©Piotr Stoklosa
Michel Navas explains: "With the Tambour Opera Automata, I wanted to reflect the striking aesthetics and expressive movements of the Changing of the Faces, an extremely difficult traditional art form that has been kept secret for generations. Just as the mechanism of an automaton requires a perfect understanding of traditional watchmaking techniques."
©Regis Goley
Originally, a Jacquemart was an automaton (a mechanical figure) installed in church bell towers to tell the time. As watchmakers later miniaturized and incorporated the Jacquemart into their timepieces, its function became primarily decorative. The Jacquemart merely served as a decorative element to add a touch of playfulness to the dial, while the time continued to be displayed by traditional hands.
©Piotr Stoklosa
©Piotr Stoklosa
An unprecedented expression
Louis Vuitton's bold journey began in Europe in 2021 with the creation of the Tambour Carpe Diem, dedicated to Vanitas. Now, a new chapter begins in Asia with the Tambour Opera Automata.
By choosing the Sichuan Opera as its theme, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has taken its contemporary watchmaking excellence to the next level. In fact, the timepiece, which is the subject of several patents, took more than two years to develop. As with the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time is displayed on the dial only by activating the automaton—via a jumping hour and retrograde minute mechanism. Comprised of a total of 426 components, the Caliber LV525 has an impressive power reserve of 100 hours.
©Regis Goley
The automaton mechanism, powered by an exceptional calibre with jumping hours and retrograde minutes, creates five animations, creating a unique and unforgettable 16-second watchmaking spectacle. At the press of a pusher, the intricately sculpted pink gold dragon's head rises to reveal the jumping hours engraved on the cloisonné enamel mask's forehead, while the dragon's tail displays the retrograde minutes. The facial expression changes dramatically: the mask frowns, the left eyelid droops, and the Monogram Starflower appears in the right eye. The face-changing automaton expresses a range of emotions, using jaw movements to convey joy, anger, sadness, and happiness.
The beauty of the dial and the vibrant rhythm of this miniature theater are captivating to the viewer.
©Regis Goley
Exceptional Craftsmanship
To bring the Tambour Opera Automata into the 21st century, Louis Vuitton has combined traditional Chinese symbols with the Maison's signature design elements, such as the canvas pattern and Monogram flower enamel on the dial. The Imperial Dragon, a mythical creature associated with ancient Chinese emperors, represents strength, power, and nobility, reigning supreme.
The fan next to it is a symbol of wisdom and authority. Clouds symbolize good fortune, and gourds are believed to protect people from evil spirits. Furthermore, the four-petaled Monogram Flower replaces the number "4," considered an unlucky number in Asia, for the time display, achieving the ultimate in refinement. Finished in white, red, and black cloisonné enamel, separated by thin white gold lines, the surface is impeccably crafted by master enamelist Anita Porcher. The fan's incredible depth is achieved through the champlevé enamel technique, in which pigments are poured into recesses carved into the metal surface and then fired. The enameling of the dial and crown took a full seven days to complete.
©Piotr Stoklosa
The details engraved in the precious metal took renowned Swiss engraver Dick Steenmann approximately two weeks to complete, giving the Tambour Opera Automata an unparalleled level of relief effect. The pink gold dragon's features are richly expressed, down to the smallest details – its piercing ruby eyes and engraved and sandblasted scales – so that it literally appears to leap out of a face-changing mask, opening its mouth to reveal the time. The automaton's dragon-head pushers, winding crown and champlevé enamel fan are all handcrafted.
Finally, to achieve the ultimate in refinement and technical perfection, Louis Vuitton has recreated the faceted shape on the back of the movement, contrasting shot-blasted finishes with flawless mirror polish, resulting in an impeccable finish. With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton embodies the technical complexity of an automatic watch with a bold, powerful and contemporary aesthetic.
©LOUIS VUITTON
"Tambour Opera Automata"
Price: Inquire
Movement
■LV 525 caliber: Hand-wound mechanical movement developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
■Automata mechanism with five mechanisms, jumping hour, retrograde minute, power reserve indicator
■ Number of components: 426
■ Power reserve: 100 hours
■ Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
■ Jewels: 50
Case
■ 18K pink gold case and lugs
■ Hand-engraved 18K pink gold crown and push-pieces
■ Push-pieces set with two rubies, crown set with one ruby
■ Case diameter: 46.8 mm
■ Thickness: 14.4 mm
■ Domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
■ Water resistance: 30 m
Dial
■ Enamelling and miniature painting by Anita Porcher (dial, face, fan)
■ Hand-engraving by Dick Steenman (dragon, gourd)
■ Curved glass gourd
■ Dial set with a cabochon-cut ruby
Strap
■Black alligator strap
Buckle
■18K pink gold double folding buckle
Set with six cabochon-cut rubies (up to 0.06 carats)
【About Louis Vuitton】
Since its founding in 1854, Louis Vuitton has consistently offered distinctive designs that combine innovation and style, always at the highest quality. Today, through its travel luggage, bags, accessories, and other products, the brand faithfully carries on the spirit of "the essence of travel" created by its founder, Louis Vuitton, which is creative, elegant, and practical. It was boldness that shaped the story of Louis Vuitton. Respecting tradition, the brand has opened its doors to architects, artists, and designers throughout its history, pioneering fields such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches & fine jewelry, and fragrances. These meticulously crafted products are a testament to Louis Vuitton's dedication to craftsmanship.
©Ulysse FrechelinWith the debut of the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues its journey into the exclusive world of high-end watchmaking with an automaton movement. Paying homage to the "face-changing" art of Sichuan Opera, this exceptional watch, meticulously crafted with exquisite detail, depicts a traditional face that comes to life with a touch of the wrist and instantly changes appearance. This is truly an artistic performance brought to life by a masterpiece movement conceived, developed, and assembled entirely by Louis Vuitton's watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
©Regis GoleyAfter the Tambour Carpe Diem won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2021, Louis Vuitton left Europe and the expressive world of vanitas to embark on a new journey in China, the birthplace of "face-changing." This art of face-changing, a defining feature of Sichuan opera, is a major source of inspiration for the Tambour Opera Automata. Just like the Tambour Carpe Diem, which changes its appearance at the touch of a button, the Tambour Opera Automata also embodies an unwavering discipline that requires incredible skill. In Sichuan Opera, face-changers cycle through up to 20 different masks in the blink of an eye, revealing a wide range of expressions. The technique of making the faces painted on the silken fabric appear and disappear with quick hand movements and graceful fan movements is a well-kept secret, and in the 21st century, only a handful of face-changers remain who continue to practice this ancient art.
©Ulysse FrechelinTo translate this mystical interplay within the watch case, Louis Vuitton enlisted the help of some of the most accomplished artisans of our time. Master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini of the Maison's watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, created the movement for this extraordinary timepiece, while enameller Anita Porchet and engraver Dick Steenman adorned it with their exquisite design.
©Piotr StoklosaMichel Navas explains: "With the Tambour Opera Automata, I wanted to reflect the striking aesthetics and expressive movements of the Changing of the Faces, an extremely difficult traditional art form that has been kept secret for generations. Just as the mechanism of an automaton requires a perfect understanding of traditional watchmaking techniques."
©Regis GoleyOriginally, a Jacquemart was an automaton (a mechanical figure) installed in church bell towers to tell the time. As watchmakers later miniaturized and incorporated the Jacquemart into their timepieces, its function became primarily decorative. The Jacquemart merely served as a decorative element to add a touch of playfulness to the dial, while the time continued to be displayed by traditional hands.
©Piotr Stoklosa©Piotr StoklosaAn unprecedented expression
Louis Vuitton's bold journey began in Europe in 2021 with the creation of the Tambour Carpe Diem, dedicated to Vanitas. Now, a new chapter begins in Asia with the Tambour Opera Automata.
By choosing the Sichuan Opera as its theme, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has taken its contemporary watchmaking excellence to the next level. In fact, the timepiece, which is the subject of several patents, took more than two years to develop. As with the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time is displayed on the dial only by activating the automaton—via a jumping hour and retrograde minute mechanism. Comprised of a total of 426 components, the Caliber LV525 has an impressive power reserve of 100 hours.
©Regis GoleyThe automaton mechanism, powered by an exceptional calibre with jumping hours and retrograde minutes, creates five animations, creating a unique and unforgettable 16-second watchmaking spectacle. At the press of a pusher, the intricately sculpted pink gold dragon's head rises to reveal the jumping hours engraved on the cloisonné enamel mask's forehead, while the dragon's tail displays the retrograde minutes. The facial expression changes dramatically: the mask frowns, the left eyelid droops, and the Monogram Starflower appears in the right eye. The face-changing automaton expresses a range of emotions, using jaw movements to convey joy, anger, sadness, and happiness.
The beauty of the dial and the vibrant rhythm of this miniature theater are captivating to the viewer.
©Regis GoleyExceptional Craftsmanship
To bring the Tambour Opera Automata into the 21st century, Louis Vuitton has combined traditional Chinese symbols with the Maison's signature design elements, such as the canvas pattern and Monogram flower enamel on the dial. The Imperial Dragon, a mythical creature associated with ancient Chinese emperors, represents strength, power, and nobility, reigning supreme.
The fan next to it is a symbol of wisdom and authority. Clouds symbolize good fortune, and gourds are believed to protect people from evil spirits. Furthermore, the four-petaled Monogram Flower replaces the number "4," considered an unlucky number in Asia, for the time display, achieving the ultimate in refinement. Finished in white, red, and black cloisonné enamel, separated by thin white gold lines, the surface is impeccably crafted by master enamelist Anita Porcher. The fan's incredible depth is achieved through the champlevé enamel technique, in which pigments are poured into recesses carved into the metal surface and then fired. The enameling of the dial and crown took a full seven days to complete.
©Piotr StoklosaThe details engraved in the precious metal took renowned Swiss engraver Dick Steenmann approximately two weeks to complete, giving the Tambour Opera Automata an unparalleled level of relief effect. The pink gold dragon's features are richly expressed, down to the smallest details – its piercing ruby eyes and engraved and sandblasted scales – so that it literally appears to leap out of a face-changing mask, opening its mouth to reveal the time. The automaton's dragon-head pushers, winding crown and champlevé enamel fan are all handcrafted.
Finally, to achieve the ultimate in refinement and technical perfection, Louis Vuitton has recreated the faceted shape on the back of the movement, contrasting shot-blasted finishes with flawless mirror polish, resulting in an impeccable finish. With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton embodies the technical complexity of an automatic watch with a bold, powerful and contemporary aesthetic.
©LOUIS VUITTON"Tambour Opera Automata"
Price: Inquire
Movement
■LV 525 caliber: Hand-wound mechanical movement developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
■Automata mechanism with five mechanisms, jumping hour, retrograde minute, power reserve indicator
■ Number of components: 426
■ Power reserve: 100 hours
■ Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
■ Jewels: 50
Case
■ 18K pink gold case and lugs
■ Hand-engraved 18K pink gold crown and push-pieces
■ Push-pieces set with two rubies, crown set with one ruby
■ Case diameter: 46.8 mm
■ Thickness: 14.4 mm
■ Domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
■ Water resistance: 30 m
Dial
■ Enamelling and miniature painting by Anita Porcher (dial, face, fan)
■ Hand-engraving by Dick Steenman (dragon, gourd)
■ Curved glass gourd
■ Dial set with a cabochon-cut ruby
Strap
■Black alligator strap
Buckle
■18K pink gold double folding buckle
Set with six cabochon-cut rubies (up to 0.06 carats)
【About Louis Vuitton】
Since its founding in 1854, Louis Vuitton has consistently offered distinctive designs that combine innovation and style, always at the highest quality. Today, through its travel luggage, bags, accessories, and other products, the brand faithfully carries on the spirit of "the essence of travel" created by its founder, Louis Vuitton, which is creative, elegant, and practical. It was boldness that shaped the story of Louis Vuitton. Respecting tradition, the brand has opened its doors to architects, artists, and designers throughout its history, pioneering fields such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches & fine jewelry, and fragrances. These meticulously crafted products are a testament to Louis Vuitton's dedication to craftsmanship.
