Akiko Aoki's "faint" and "looping" ambiguous world [Women's Spring/Summer 2018]

Oct 21, 2017

AKIKOAOKI presented their 2018 Spring/Summer collection on October 17th during Amazon Fashion Week TOKYO 2018 S/S at Space O on the third basement floor of the main building at Omotesando Hills. The venue was packed with students invited by Amazon Fashion, and standing room only became a standing spectator attraction. Aoki explained about this collection, "Based on the themes of 'loop' and 'paleness,' I focused on creating silhouettes that don't reveal the body lines, to express the lack of answers, the absence of beginnings and endings, and the ambiguity of not clearly defining black and white." Eye-catching looks included excessive frills and gathers, as well as layered georgette for volume at the hem, subtly covering the figure. Additionally, looks featuring open corsets layered over shirts and dresses, or bra tops affixed to them, were intended to explore new design possibilities by elevating items that are traditionally restrictive. The abundant use of drawcords, belts, and suspenders seemed to express the "loop" theme and sporty feel. The early color palette included soft pinks, stripes, and a smoky blue vinyl foiled georgette fabric, gradually expanding to include bright greens and bright red knitwear. This was intended to clash contrasting colors, ranging from pale to vibrant and fresh. Models wore jewelry from moil, Risako Ishigami's jewelry brand, around their ears and necks, adding a touch of elegance.

Regarding the production in which the models who walked the runway lined up on stage for the finale, Aoki said, "Rather than completing the show with each individual piece, I wanted to show the connections between them and the collection as a whole from a bird's-eye view." This production transformed the collection, which had seemed to continue faintly and seamlessly, into a clear and powerful show. It was a show that conveyed Aoki's thoughts, beautifully expressing "faintness" and "loops" through clever design and production.
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