[Japan Mode Magazine Chronicle: Yuri Yokoi] Riding the Updraft with the Mini-Bubble -- 10/12 Part 2

Feb 22, 2014

Now in its second year since publication, Harper's Bazaar Japan decided to change its title font to its previous, classic style starting with the April 2002 issue. Hearst America appointed Glenda Berry, who had made the US Marie Claire the number one selling magazine, as editor-in-chief of the US Harper's Bazaar in an attempt to turn it around. Glenda's first move was to revert the title font to its previous style and, in order to create a more approachable cover, to feature an actress popular with female readers on each issue.

In line with Hearst's move, Misao Ito, who lived in New York and served as at-large editor of the Japanese version of Bazaar, was brought back as editor-in-chief. Her first order of business was to change the title font to follow the US version's lead. Additionally, bookstores pointed out that the small format lacked impact when displayed on a shelf. Advertisers requested a larger format for physical reasons, such as the need to resize advertising photos. Editorially, the magazine also considered the photos to look better. Starting with the August 2002 issue, the magazine decided to adopt a Japanese-standard format and large print.

For the first year after its launch, the magazine ran a campaign slogan, "Harper's BAZAAR is the world's oldest fashion magazine!" Once recognized as a fashion magazine with a longer history than Vogue, it gradually gained traction in the fashion industry. Despite being forced to undergo repeated redesigns within the first year, growing reader response led to increased advertising, creating a virtuous cycle.

Around the time BAZAAR's renewal was underway, luxury brands responded to the arrival of the new millennium by opening large, new-concept flagship stores one after another, primarily in Omotesando and Ginza.

The first to open was a large Louis Vuitton store in a corner of the Matsuya Ginza store near Ginza 1-Chome in 2000. In June 2001, Maison Hermès opened on Harumi-dori in Ginza 5-Chome, an 11-story building with an art space and cinema, and in September, the Chanel Omotesando store, which attracted attention for its location in Omotesando, opened. The Louis Vuitton Omotesando store, which opened in September 2002, also featured an art space and a special VIP room. In May 2003, Prada opened in Omotesando, and in December 2004, the Chanel Ginza store opened, with Chanel president Richard Collasse visiting the construction site for 140 days and talking with the workers until it was completed. This was followed in November 2006 by the 8-story Gucci Ginza store facing Harumi-dori.

Fueled by the booming luxury brands, Bazaar Japan also enjoyed an upswing, increasing both advertising and circulation year-on-year. The magazine featured extraordinary products like crocodile bags and boots, and introduced "It" bags, editor's bags, the elegant lifestyles of celebrities, and ageless women who continue to enjoy fashion, regardless of their age. This was the height of a mini-bubble era, when women who had established their financial bases excelled at self-production and enjoyed life on their own.

Subsequently, HB Japan, publisher of Harper's Bazaar Japan, was acquired by ILM (International Luxury Media), a parent company of an IT company. However, in September 2010, ten years after the magazine's launch, the company terminated its licensing agreement with Hearst.

Continued on 11/12. Revived by Akiko Mori.
Yuri Yokoi
  • Harper's Bazaar Japan 2nd Anniversary Edition (October 2002 issue)
  • Chanel Ginza facade
  • Gucci Ginza facade
  • Harper's Bazaar Japan 3rd Anniversary Issue (October 2003)
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