Fashion evolves by embracing the spirit of the times. The 20th century is undoubtedly called the "century of fashion" because women embraced fashions that updated with each passing decade in response to changing social contexts. As we entered the 21st century, eco-consciousness grew, acknowledging that the competition for novelty and disposable fashion was contributing to the destruction of the global environment. Attention began to be focused on "ethical fashion," which considers environmentally friendly fashion products and the humanitarian aspects of those who produce them. In response to this trend, the United Nations International Trade Centre (ITC) launched a program called the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI). Under the slogan "Not Charity, Just Work," ITC/EFI helps create new jobs by connecting the handiwork of people, particularly women artisans, living in impoverished areas such as Africa, Haiti, and Palestine with fashion brands and retailers around the world. ITC/EFI held an exhibition and panel discussion on "ethical" at the Shin-Maru Building from December 8th to 14th, with EFI's collaborator, United Arrows (UA), also participating. The panel discussion on the 11th featured Arantxa Gonzalez from ITC, Simone Cipriani from EFI, Stella Jean, a designer active in the Milan Collection, and Hirofumi Kurino, senior advisor at UA and creator of the company's new label, "TEGE." While coming from different backgrounds, the panelists are all tackling the challenge of realizing ethical fashion. The discussion covered topics such as what constitutes ethical fashion, why we are moving toward ethical fashion, and whether fashion can make people happy. The full scope of this initiative involves traditional beaded accessories from Kenya, handwoven fabrics from Burkina Faso that have been passed down for generations, and mud-dyed fabrics called bogolan from Mali. Designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, and Stella Jean, who recently visited Japan, have used these materials in their collections. UA has also used some of these materials to launch the "TEGE" brand. By using and purchasing these materials from designers and retailers, 7,000 people (95% of whom are women) have gained jobs, escaped poverty, and are now able to eat properly and their children attend school.

Most importantly, says ITC's Arantxa Gonzalez, these women are now able to live with dignity. It's no longer about charity; it's about providing sustainable jobs, "Not Charity, Just Work."

Continued from 2/2, "When a New Fashion Begins."